引用
「又美麗又虔敬」:中爪哇戴頭巾者社群的美/德能動性
Beautifully Islam: The Rise of “Hijabers Community” and Affective Agency in Central Java
作者:趙恩潔(En-Chieh Chao) | 首次發表於 2020-05-11 | 第 64 期 December 2018
DOI:https://dx.doi.org/10.6786/TJS.201812_(64).0001
研究論文(Research Articles)
論文資訊 | Article information
摘要 Abstract
「戴頭巾者社群」是一場結合時尚與宗教的印尼穆斯林女性社會運動,其最知名成員之社群媒體追隨者高達四百八十萬人。過去國際學界已有豐碩的伊斯蘭頭巾研究,但在探索後殖民抵抗、本土現代性、公眾虔敬(public piety)、性別化階級焦慮、及美德的主體化過程之際,仍尚未關注到這個廣存而蓬勃的現象。本文透過中爪哇小城沙拉迪加戴頭巾者社群(Hijabers Salatiga)的觀點,指出這一公開提倡「又美麗又虔敬」(cantik tetap syar'i)的女性宗教運動,其所展現的是過去研究無法窮盡的一種能動性樣態(mode):「美/德能動性」(pious beautifying agency)。Hijabers結合時尚、代表虔敬的頭巾與作為宗教義務的慈善活動,將過去兩個不相關的領域結合;同時,Hijabers的美學重視未完成性與開放性,因此任何功能性的解釋都無法完全定錨她們的實踐。透過設計與穿戴新風格的頭巾服飾來呈現前衛又時尚的伊斯蘭身體,Hijabers挑戰世界對戴頭巾女子的既有偏見。她們所引領的文化風潮與其正在發生的社會效應,提醒我們在後全球宗教復興的時代,必須嚴肅看待落在女性主義與政治運動之外的宗教運動。關注「美麗」與「虔敬」的新共生現象,除了在經驗上有助於瞭解穆斯林女性結合宗教認同與時尚衣妝的特殊能動性樣態,也將在理論上有助於重新闡釋近年來人文社會學科中日益重要的主題:德勒茲「情動性」(the affective)概念。

關鍵詞:虔敬、伊斯蘭、美麗、女性、情動性的能動性

 

The so-called “Hijabers Community” is an Indonesian religious movement that is led by young Muslim women who advocate faith and fashion simultaneously. While the scholarly literature on the hijab or the Islamic headscarf has explored themes on postcolonial resistance, local modernity, public piety, gendered class anxiety, and the pursuit of virtue, it surprisingly overlooks the topic of beauty. This paper privileges the viewpoint of members of “Hijabers Salatiga” in Central Java in order to argue that the Hijabers movement represents a mode of affective agency that connects stylish bodies with pious veilling and charitable activities, two previously unrelated domains in Indonesia. Importantly, Hijabers’ aesthetics are characterized by unfinished-ness and openness, and therefore cannot be explained by functionalist accounts. The cultural trends and social effects of the Hijabers movement remind us that, in a globalizing era of religious revivals, sociologists and anthropologists should seriously consider religious movements outside of explicitly feminist and political agendas. Understanding this novel trend not only supports perceptions of modern Muslim women’s creativity, but also illustrates Deleuze’s concept of “the affective” — an increasingly prominent theme in the humanities and social sciences.

Keywords: piety, beauty, Islam, women, affective agency